AEG dishwasher i10 error
Usable, but not working properly
The machine asked for water and not enough arrived, so it stopped rather than starting a wash with an empty tub. The stopcock feeding the dishwasher is closed or only part open is the most common cause.
- Difficulty
- DIY
- Time needed
- About 25 min
- Checks
- 5 steps
The same fault is shown as i11, AL5, C1, F1 on some AEG series, depending on the display and the model year.
Before you start
- Unplug the machine and close the stopcock before unscrewing the fill hose. The hose holds water at mains pressure and the connector housing contains an electrical valve.
- If the fill hose is bent, twisted or damaged, unplug the machine and shut off the water immediately. A damaged hose must be inspected by an engineer rather than straightened and reused.
What it means
The machine asked for water and not enough arrived, so it stopped rather than starting a wash with an empty tub.
Most likely causes
Ordered from most to least common, with what each one looks like:
| Cause | How likely | What you would see |
|---|---|---|
| The stopcock feeding the dishwasher is closed or only part open | high | Somebody has worked on the plumbing under the sink recently |
| The fill hose is bent or trapped where the machine was pushed back into its space | high | There is a tight bend, twist or squashed length where the appliance backs onto the wall |
| The small gauze filter in the hose connector at the tap end is blocked with grit and scale | medium | Unscrewing the hose at the tap reveals a mesh disc coated in sediment |
| Mains water pressure at the machine is genuinely too low for it to fill in the time allowed | low | The cold tap over the sink also runs weakly at the same time of day |
Fix steps
Tools needed
- Bowl
- Cloth
-
Locate the stopcock serving the appliance, normally in the cupboard beside it, and check it is wide open rather than half turned.
Expected result A lever-type valve points along the pipe run; a round handle should be wound anticlockwise until it stops. If it does not, go to step 2.
-
Open the cold tap at the sink fully for about thirty seconds and watch how hard it runs.
Expected result Water arrives hard and stays hard, which tells you the kitchen supply itself is fine. If it does not, go to step 5.
-
Ease the appliance out of its housing and trace the inlet pipework along its full run, releasing anything that is squashing or twisting it.
Expected result Nothing presses on the pipework and it curves gently rather than doubling back on itself. If it does not, go to step 4.
-
Shut the stopcock, pull the plug, then release the inlet coupling at the tap over a basin and rinse the small mesh screen inside it until the sediment is gone.
Expected result Daylight passes through the screen cleanly, and the coupling goes back on firmly by hand.
-
Reopen the stopcock, dry the joint and check it stays dry, reconnect the power and begin a short cycle.
Expected result You hear filling begin within about a minute and the cycle carries on past that stage.
Parts needed
| Part | Part number | Typical cost |
|---|---|---|
| Fill hose with inlet filter | Varies by model | Varies by supplier |
When to call a technician
Call a qualified technician if you work through every step above and the code comes back, if you find water where it should not be, or if any part of the job needs the machine powered up with panels removed. A repeat fault after a correct repair usually points at the control board rather than the part you replaced.
Common questions
What does i10 mean on a AEG dishwasher?
The machine asked for water and not enough arrived, so it stopped rather than starting a wash with an empty tub. The stopcock feeding the dishwasher is closed or only part open is the most common reason for it.
Can I keep using the dishwasher?
You can usually still run the machine, but it will not be working correctly and the fault will keep coming back until it is fixed.
Is this something I can fix myself?
Yes, for most people. The checks below need bowl and cloth and take about 25 minutes.
Models this applies to
Related codes on the same machines
- i20 The machine has tried to empty itself and the water has not gone, so it has stopped with dirty water still standing in the base.
- i23 The cover that seals the drain pump is loose, fitted incorrectly, or missing altogether, so the pump cannot build suction and the water stays where it is.
- i24 Something solid has reached the drain pump and is stopping the impeller turning.
- i30 The anti-flood device in the base of the machine has been triggered by water where there should not be any.
- i40 The appliance cannot get a trustworthy reading of how much water is inside it, so it halts rather than guessing and either running dry or overfilling.
- i50 The motor that drives water up to the spray arms is not behaving as the control board expects, so the wash is abandoned.
Sources
- Electrolux Group (AEG), AEG support, dishwasher error code i10 / i11 / AL5 / C1, not filling (link) — retrieved 2026-07-26