AEG dishwasher i60 error
Usable, but not working properly
The water inside is hotter than the programme allows, or the appliance can no longer trust what its temperature sensor is telling it. Dishes often come out damp or poorly dried when this appears. The appliance is plumbed into the hot supply and that supply runs hotter than the sixty degrees it is rated to accept is the most common cause.
- Difficulty
- Some experience
- Time needed
- About 60 min
- Checks
- 5 steps
The same fault is shown as i61, i69, i6C on some AEG series, depending on the display and the model year.
Before you start
- Water at these temperatures scalds. Let a finished programme cool before opening the door fully or reaching inside.
- Do not attempt to test the heating element or its wiring. Those terminals sit at mains potential inside a wet appliance.
- Descaler is acidic. Follow the dose on the packaging and keep it off your skin.
What it means
The water inside is hotter than the programme allows, or the appliance can no longer trust what its temperature sensor is telling it. Dishes often come out damp or poorly dried when this appears.
Most likely causes
Ordered from most to least common, with what each one looks like:
| Cause | How likely | What you would see |
|---|---|---|
| The appliance is plumbed into the hot supply and that supply runs hotter than the sixty degrees it is rated to accept | high | The feed pipe under the sink is warm to the touch, or a combi boiler or cylinder is set high |
| The temperature sensor has drifted or failed and is reporting a figure that does not match reality | medium | The fault shows on a cold-fill machine where the incoming water cannot possibly be too hot |
| The heating element or its control has failed, so the programme never reaches or holds its target | medium | Loads come out cool and wet, and the drying stage seems to achieve nothing |
| Heavy scale on the heating surfaces is insulating them and distorting what the sensor reads | low | A chalky crust has formed inside the tub and the machine has never been descaled |
Fix steps
Tools needed
- Kitchen thermometer
-
Establish which supply the appliance is plumbed into by feeling the pipe feeding it after the household hot water has been run for a minute.
Expected result You can say whether it is on a cold feed or a hot one.
-
If it is on a hot feed, check the temperature that supply is delivering. Sixty degrees is the ceiling the appliance is built for, and a cylinder or combi set above that will exceed it.
Expected result The delivered temperature sits at or below the limit, or you have found the cause. If it does not, go to step 3.
-
Where the hot supply runs too hot, either turn the boiler or cylinder thermostat down, or move the appliance onto the cold feed instead, which is what most installations should use.
Expected result Water arriving at the machine is within its rated range.
-
Empty the appliance, add a descaler and run the longest, hottest programme to strip deposits off the heating surfaces.
Expected result The tub interior is visibly clearer and the heating stage behaves normally afterwards. If it does not, go to step 5.
-
If the fault continues on a correctly fed and descaled machine, book a service visit. The sensor and the heating circuit sit behind the tub and testing them means opening the appliance up.
Expected result The engineer can measure the sensor and the element with the supply-side causes already eliminated.
Parts needed
| Part | Part number | Typical cost |
|---|---|---|
| Dishwasher descaler | Varies by model | Varies by supplier |
When to call a technician
Call a qualified technician if you work through every step above and the code comes back, if you find water where it should not be, or if any part of the job needs the machine powered up with panels removed. A repeat fault after a correct repair usually points at the control board rather than the part you replaced.
Common questions
What does i60 mean on a AEG dishwasher?
The water inside is hotter than the programme allows, or the appliance can no longer trust what its temperature sensor is telling it. Dishes often come out damp or poorly dried when this appears. The appliance is plumbed into the hot supply and that supply runs hotter than the sixty degrees it is rated to accept is the most common reason for it.
Can I keep using the dishwasher?
You can usually still run the machine, but it will not be working correctly and the fault will keep coming back until it is fixed.
Is this something I can fix myself?
Partly. The first checks are straightforward, but the later ones need kitchen thermometer and some confidence taking panels off. Budget about 60 minutes.
Models this applies to
Related codes on the same machines
- i10 The machine asked for water and not enough arrived, so it stopped rather than starting a wash with an empty tub.
- i20 The machine has tried to empty itself and the water has not gone, so it has stopped with dirty water still standing in the base.
- i23 The cover that seals the drain pump is loose, fitted incorrectly, or missing altogether, so the pump cannot build suction and the water stays where it is.
- i24 Something solid has reached the drain pump and is stopping the impeller turning.
- i30 The anti-flood device in the base of the machine has been triggered by water where there should not be any.
- i40 The appliance cannot get a trustworthy reading of how much water is inside it, so it halts rather than guessing and either running dry or overfilling.
Sources
- Electrolux Group (AEG), AEG support, dishwasher error codes i60, i61, i69 and i6C (link) — retrieved 2026-07-26